Verbier, Switzerland via Turkish Airlines | All & About

A Travelogue by Lucas Raven

Verbier is the main resort in Switzerland’s largest ski area, the 4 Valleys. Thanks to the combination of a sunny, scenic location, exciting terrain and a lively nightlife, it has long attracted a youthful, sporty clientele. Easy access (two and a half hours by public transport from Geneva airport) has helped make the resort popular with Brits as well as the Dutch, Scandinavians, the international Geneva set – and above all, the Swiss.

While Verbier has slopes to suit all levels, it best suits confident, adventurous skiers and snowboarders. The 80 lifts access more than 400km of runs, including some of the best lift-served off piste in the Alps.

Slopes here are snowsure and the scenery spectacular, and from the top of the ski area – Mont Fort, at 3,330m – the views reach as far as the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc.

Thanks to the altitude of the ski area and the extensive snowmaking, it’s pretty safe to book early or late in the season. From the resort at 1,500m, heights of more than 2,700m can be reached by two consecutive gondola rides that take under 11 minutes in total. There, the high altitude guarantees abundant snow.

The resort’s main network of pistes is directly above Verbier, served by the Médran gondola. For the 2013/14 season, an ambitious complex opened at the foot of the Médran gondola. Shops, restaurants and the luxury W Verbier hotel here, plus a generous allocation of lounges, bars, cafés and other public spaces, gave the resort a better focus point. A regular free shuttle bus links Médran with the lifts for Verbier’s other, smaller ski areas, via different routes among the town’s chalets – the bus also provides the majority of visitors with access to the central area and its slopes.

The opening of two long-awaited lift connections in winter 2013/14 made it much easier to explore the whole of the 4 Valleys ski area. One accesses the heart of the Bruson ski area, formerly an insider’s secret among locals; now it’s just two seamless gondola rides from Verbier. A second high-speed gondola has transformed the link between the 4 Valleys resorts of Siviez and Nendaz.

The challenging terrain on Verbier’s doorstep has given rise to thrilling spectator events, from Xtreme Verbier (the finals of the Freeride World Tour) and the Verbier High Five (where amateurs compete alongside world champions), to the Patrouille des Glaciers, a gruelling ski touring race from Zermatt.

Verbier is a resort which has long been heavy on exclusive private chalets, along with a smattering of upmarket hotels and more reasonable lodges. Perhaps surprisingly, for such a well-heeled resort, there also are a couple of hostel-style options but these need booking well in advance. Also for the more budget strapped, in winter 2017/18 the Téléverbier lift company launched the T-One accommodation in the satellite resort of La Tzoumaz over the Savoleyres ridge from Verbier town, which makes a lower priced alternative base. T-One is ski-in/ski-out and comprises 85 self-catering apartments in two large, chalet-style buildings.

Where to stay

MAP

Formerly a vicarage and now a church-owned, non-profit hostel, MAP (Maison d’Accueil de la Paroisse) sleeps 23 people in five rooms (six-bed, four-bed and three-bed). This is the last remaining budget option in Verbier itself, located near the atmospheric old wooden barns of Verbier Village, 15 minutes’ walk from the Médran gondola, so places tend to sell out early. There’s a large, friendly living room, fully equipped kitchen, free Wi-Fi and shared bathrooms. From CHF50 per night bed only.

La Tzoum

A family-run chalet-hostel in La Tzoumaz, La Tzoum is 20 minutes’ walk from the gondola into the Savoleyres sector – or a 10-minute transfer by free ski bus. It has two scenic balconies, a lounge with fireplace, free Wi-Fi and a large kitchen. From CHF40 in a dormitory or CHF100 for a double room, room only.

Hotel Mirabeau

An independent three-star run by Norwegian owner Chris Stuckelberger and her daughter, Sylvie, Hotel Mirabeau has a cosy Nordic feel and warm welcome. It’s also in an ideal location, two minutes’ walk from the Médran gondola in Verbier town. Popular with Scandinavians, it has a spacious, sociable lounge with open fire and games, and serves a generous breakfast buffet. From £651 for four nights b&b with Ski Weekends.

Hotel de la Poste

Three walk minutes from the Médran gondola, Hotel de la Poste offers an attractive combination of central location, and homely Swiss ambience. It’s welcoming and unpretentious, with good food, car parking and a small pool. From £1,415 with Ski Solutions.

W Verbier

The first Alpine hotel of the funky W chain (strong in the US and Asia), W Verbier has the best location in town, opposite the Médran gondola. With stylish rooms, exposed timber, glassed-in fireplaces, chic bars and spacious lounges, it’s one of the sexiest hotels in Verbier. From £1,347 b&b with Ski Independence.

Chalet Chouqui

A mega-luxurious chalet sleeping up to 16, plus four children in a bunk-bed room, Chouqui boasts views of Mont Blanc, a large sun terrace, outdoor hot tub and one of the largest indoor pools in the resort. It is a top choice for a group of friends or families holidaying together. From CHF70,000 for the whole chalet, excluding travel, with Ski Verbier Exclusive.

Verbier’s on-mountain chalets are Swiss-French, a brilliant combo of alpine heritage and haute cuisine, like fondue and French wine! It doesn’t get any better for on mountain food than skiing into a chalet like James Blunt’s restaurant La Vache – ultra popular and modern, or more traditional Cabane du Glacier Tortin on Mont Fort where they serve Swiss fondue to die for, literally given the narrow goat path you ski to to get there. Visit as many of Verbier’s 24 fabulous Swiss chalets and bars dotted around the ski slopes as your adjustable waist ski pants will allow!

Resort restaurants, as well as its hotels and shops, are concentrated in a relatively small area of the resort: the streets leading off Place Centrale and up to the main gondola station at Médran, 500m away (a 10-minute walk from end to end). Choices on the mountain range from cosy chalets serving Valais cuisine to self-service eateries. While prices tend to be high in Verbier, there is good value to be found.

On the subject of food, here are some high-altitude special mentions.

Where to eat on the mountain

Le Carrefour

At the top of the Rouge lift, and also accessible by shuttle bus from Verbier, Le Carrefour serves pasta, steak and Asian inspired dishes, but the main attraction is the rosti menu. Traditionally fried grated potato with bacon and onion here it can be vegetarian, ham and mushroom or venison. For maximum value share a large one.

La Chotte Tortin

This self-service restaurant at the bottom of the Tortin-Gentianes cable car above Siviez has a massive sunny terrace, and is great location for either fuelling up or recovering from an attack on Mont Fort – the less gung-ho need can ride down from Verbier. It’s not gourmet, but the short menu of hot dishes and simple salads is long on value.

Le Namasté

A cosy chalet in Savoleyres below the blue Planards run into Verbier, Le Namasté was built in 1811. With panelled parlours, it’s decorated inside and out with sculptures made from agricultural paraphernalia by the chef, Jean-Lou Margelisch. The restaurant serves home-cooked Valais cuisine and is also open for dinner, by reservation only – walk up from Carrefour in half an hour and toboggan home (head torch essential).

Les Chottes

This huge, atmospheric, 100-year-old converted barn lies roughly mid-way between Siviez and Thyon, next to the Les Chottes draglift, making for a handy stop on a day out to the far end of the 4 Valleys. There are two sun terraces at Les Chottes, one reached through a snow tunnel. The menu has local specialities and Swiss mountain cuisine with a twist, such as Nendaz venison stew with rösti.

La Vache

Backed by three British celebrities – Superbike World Champion Carl Fogarty, Rugby World Cup-winner Lawrence Dallaglio and singer and social-media comedian James Blunt – La Vache pulls off the remarkable feat of serving good quality lunches (especially the burgers and pizza) at reasonable price on a Swiss mountain. The unprepossessing corrugated exterior of the building, which is at the top of the Attelas chairlift, masks a stylish wooden interior.

Le Dahu

Bright, airy and popular, Le Dahu has two floors and a panoramic balcony with waiter service, serving fondue, pizza and main courses that include entrecôte steak. There’s also a self-service area downstairs. It’s accessible to non-skiers, via two gondola rides from Verbier (Médran then La Chaux Express), beside the snow path and sculpture trail. Booking advised for the restaurant.

Chez Dany

A charming chalet in the hamlet of Clambin, Chez Dany is reached by via unpisted itinéraire run that is OK for intermediates, leading straight down from Les Ruinettes. With a cosy interior and a balcony with views, it serves an imaginative take on local cuisine, including succulent grills and pumpkin soup in a bread bowl. It’s open in the evenings, with a snowmobile taxi transfer. Booking advised.

Above all, where to Aprés-Ski

Verbier’s après is concentrated in a relatively small number of venues, and all the more exuberant for it. Most of those off the mountain lie within a short stagger of Place Centrale, in the centre of the resort. Les Ruinettes is the top spot to go for for scenic, dancey drinks on the mountain before that final run down. Wherever the partying starts, this is Verbier and drinks don’t come cheap.

Ice Cube

Up the mountain at Les Ruinettes, Ice Cube and it’s more glamorous sister Le Mouton Noir are the prime venue for early afternoon après on a sunny terrace to DJ sounds. Happy hour from 3pm to 4pm is almost a bargain, with beer and wine at half price. Ice Cube also serves reasonably priced burgers and sandwiches.

Le Rouge

The sunny terrace of Le Rouge at the bottom of the eponymous piste is Verbier’s après melting pot, where fur and Gore-Tex meet in a dozen languages and all ages, dancing to resident DJs.

Pub Mont Fort

A half-minute climb up from the bottom of the pistes at Médran there’s Pub Mont Fort – younger than Le Rouge, popular with Brits and instructors post-work, and invariably heaving. There’s a terrace, giant TV showing sports, and billiards – it’s a popular choice for chalet staff on their boozy evening off. Happy hour runs from 4pm until 5pm and there’s regular live music.

Hotel Farinet

The sound of live bands pounds from the glassed-in terrace of the Hotel Farinet, overlooking Place Centrale, from late afternoon to early evening, as revellers dance on the tables in their ski boots. The adjacent lounge bar offers squishy sofas, waitress service and the prospect of an audible conversation.

Vie Montagne

Combining the hipster must-haves of craft beer, imaginative cockatils and great coffee, Vie Montagne was opened for the 2017/18 season close to Médran by UK gastropub-king Tom Etridge. It serves its own V-Bier craft beer brewed on site, along with other brews from around the world, and there are two restaurants on site too.

The Etoile Rouge Supper Club

With dinner (Eastern European/Scandinavian cuisine) and dancing under one roof, the Etoile Rouge Supper Club is close to Place Centrale.

Verbier draws Hollywood A-listers, royalty, pop stars (James Blunt has a chairlift named after him) and, yes, ordinary people as well, with slopes that cater for all levels of skiers and boarders. Part of the “Four Valleys” ski area, the pistes include Medran with its cruisy blues, Les Savoleyres with lovely sweeping reds, and the more challenging black runs of Mont Fort. The resort is also known for its off-piste skiing – easiest around the La Chaux mountain; terrifying while hurtling down Mont Gelé – and each year hosts finals of the Freeride World Tour, which this year take place from March 27- April 4 (freerideworldtour.com). The mountain views are spectacular, particularly from the 3,300m-high Mont Fort peak, one of the few places in the Alps where you can view both the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc mountains simultaneously.

To sum it up, I’ve never seen such a celebrated ski destination that truly has it all – extreme skiing, extraordinary scenery, sophisticated four and five star lodging, top dining, and tireless nightlife. This chic French-speaking Swiss ski town offers high-elevation high-end, terrain along with black-diamond rated boutique shopping, gourmet dining and wild après ski in the village.